RICE PAPER SCISSORS

Under the trees that line Con Vien park, off Hai Ba Trung street, we spotted some 20 people feasting on green papaya salad, Saigon style. Their plates were filled with finely shredded papaya, beef jerky, prawn crackers, chili sauce, peanuts, and, of course, sweet fish sauce. 

Instead of sitting on little red stools, the diners were seated on linoleum seat covers laid out under the trees. 

What was not present was the green papaya cart itself, which turned out to be across street.  Upon closer examination, we deduced that the owners were running a two pronged approach to street food hustling.  Back-of-house operations and take-out orders were executed on one side of the street, while front-of-house service was conducted on the other side of the street.

Each plate started with a tuft of green papaya and was topped off with fried prawn crackers, a bit of beef jerky, peanuts, and fresh basil.

Half assembled, the plates were then stacked on a metal tray, brought across the street to the park, and mounted on the back of a motorbike. 

How they managed to keep the salads from toppling over is just the tricks of the trade.

Before bringing them out to customers, the women finished the dishes off with chili sauce, fish sauce, and another handful of herbs.

Swoon.

We couldn’t help but steal some shade and get down on the cool refreshing salad.  The papaya made our lips smack, the jerky made out bellies dance, and the chilis made our noses run.  Best way to beat that Saigon heat!

Their thoughts exactly.